HABITAT
From aquariums to terrariums and PVC enclosed cages to custom built melamine cages; there are no shortage of options when selecting the right habitat for your Bearded Dragon. Regardless of the type of enclosure you choose; size substrate and décor all play an important role in your Dragon’s health and wellness.
SIZE
Babies and small juveniles can be housed in 20 gallon (L30¼” x D12½” x H12¾”) aquariums or an equivalent enclosure. Sub adults and adults can be housed in a 55 gallon (L48” x D13” x L21”) aquarium or equivalent enclosure. Since Bearded Dragons are not an arboreal species, horizontal space is more important than vertical space and should be taken into consideration when selecting a home.
SUBSTRATE
One of the most debated subjects concerning Bearded Dragon husbandry is substrate. There are many commercial options including; sand, calci-sand, sand mats, bark, ground walnuts shells, cocoa fibre, paper towels etc. When selecting the substrate that is right for your Dragon, do your research. Sand and other indigestible loose particle substrates have been said to cause death via impaction; particularly in juvenile Dragons. We use paper towels, craft paper and newspaper for all stages of life. These options are cheap and easy to clean.
DÉCOR
Simply put, when it comes to décor; less is more. A minimalist approach may not be as aesthetically pleasing but it is more practical for cleaning and ultimately safer for your Dragon. Crickets will hide in crevices until the lights go out when they will emerge to nibble on your Dragon. A simple basking rock, hide (optional) and feeding dish will suffice.
Bearded dragons (especially adult males) are territorial; males should not be housed together. Females of a similar size can be housed together depending on the size of the habitat. However, pay close attention to any signs of dominant / submissive behavior from either of the cage mates.
LIGHTING/HEAT
Bearded Dragons are a diurnal reptile, therefore when they are kept indoors they require an ultraviolet B (UVB) source in lieu of sunlight. The UVB wavelength stimulates the skin to synthesize vitamin D3 which is essential for calcium metabolism, growth and prevention of Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). While there are a few lighting solutions available such as; coiled fluorescent bulbs and mercury vapor bulbs, we prefer to use full spectrum fluorescent tubes. It is important to note the distance at which your UVB source penetrates the source. In the case of full spectrum fluorescent tubes, it is 8-12” from the Dragon. These bulbs should be changed every 6-8 months as they lose their effectiveness over time. Alternatively, a Solarmeter can be used to check UVB levels.
As far as heat goes
Light, heat and UVB collectively stimulate the Dragon’s appetite and support digestion. Both the UVB source and heat bulb should be on for about 12-14 hours a day. We use an auto timer to make sure that times we have set remain consistent.
DIET/SUPPLEMENTS/HYDRATION
A Bearded Dragon’s diet is comprised of 3 primary components; protein, vegetation and hydration. Generally speaking; the protein to vegetation ratio is dependent on the animal’s age and size. Babies and juveniles will consume 50:50. As Dragons mature, their vegetation intake increases substantially to 65-75% of their overall diet.
PROTEIN
Crickets are the most common staple protein source for Bearded Dragons and are readily available from many sources. Babies and juveniles have voracious appetites and should be offered as many crickets as they will consume in 20-30 minutes, in small intervals. Do not offer all the crickets at once as this may stress out the Dragon. Special attention must also be given to the size of cricket. They must not be wider than the Dragon’s mouth, to avoid impaction. There is a plethora of alternative feeder insects
Caution:
1. Crickets must always be “gut loaded” before they are offered to you animals.
2. Do NOT recycle uneaten feeder insects to avoid the transmission of potential harmful bacteria.
VEGETATION
Fresh vegetables and leafy greens are essential to a bearded dragon’s daily diet, supporting everything from hydration to nutrient intake. Even if your young dragon isn’t eating much of the greens just yet, continue offering them—exposure is key, and the moisture content alone provides value. Use a shallow dish to serve bite-sized pieces of fresh greens each morning and place it within view of your dragon’s basking area to encourage interest. Stick to calcium-rich greens such as collards, mustard greens, dandelion greens, turnip greens, chicory, endive, escarole, and chard. Rotate your greens regularly and remove any tough stems that might be difficult for your dragon to chew or digest. Avoid iceberg lettuce entirely, as it lacks nutrition and can upset their digestive system. As your dragon matures, you can expand their salad selection with nutritious additions like radish tops, shredded carrots, broccoli florets, bell peppers, green beans, peas, and squashes such as acorn and butternut. Fruits like kiwi, raspberries, or papaya may also be offered in moderation, about once or twice a week. Growing your own greens and vegetables can be a rewarding part of caring for your dragon. It gives you control over quality and helps ensure your produce is free from pesticides and harmful chemicals. Always wash all produce thoroughly before serving. Need some inspiration? Be sure to check out our TND Salad Recipes for nutritious and delicious salad combinations your dragon will love!
HYDRATION
Proper hydration is just as important as diet, especially in the warm environments bearded dragons require. Since most dragons don’t naturally drink from standing water, regular misting and occasional soaking are the best ways to keep them hydrated. A warm bath once or twice a week—just deep enough to reach the elbows—can help maintain hydration and keep your dragon clean. It also helps remove any waste that may have gotten stuck to their tail, belly, or feet. For babies and young juveniles, gentle misting is often more effective than soaking. We recommend misting them from head to tail twice a day: once in the morning about 30 minutes after lights come on, and once again in the evening before lights go out. Use warm tap water and a fine spray to avoid chilling your dragon. Mist slowly over the head and body, pausing between sprays. Many dragons will begin drinking as water drips down their face—watch for signs like closed eyes and lowered heads as they sip. Every dragon is a little different, so it may take some time to figure out what spray pattern or misting method they prefer. When your dragon lifts its head back up and stops drinking, you’ll know they’re done. Avoid misting more than twice daily to prevent the enclosure—and your dragon—from staying too cool, which can affect digestion and appetite.
SUPPLEMENTS
All food types should be supplemented with calcium and multivitamins several times a week. The frequency depends of the type of supplement used.
The feeding frequency will vary depending on the age/size of the Dragon. We feed our Dragons 2-3 times per day.
